Freshman River Rat
Joined: 06 Aug 2010
|Posted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 11:20 am Post subject: CALISTO FOR SALE: 44 ft steel staysail schooner
Calisto: A steel staysail schooner, Colvin design. 40 feet on deck and 44 feet overall, 11.5 foot beam, 32,000 pounds displacement.
Launched in 2000 and always carefully cared for. Decks, coaming and house flame sprayed with molten zinc to reduce nuisance rusting problems.
Comes with extensive equipment list.
For more information, contact Richard by email at email@example.com.
Tom Colvin design
Dimensions: 40 feet on deck, 44 feet overall with bowsprit, 11 ft. 8 inch beam, 5 foot 6 inch draft (note draft has been increased by 1 foot deeper than called for in plans)
Steel hull and deck with lead ballast, 33,000 lbs displacement
Custom built (Millwright) in Canada, keel bottom is ½ inch, keel sides are Ό inch, hull is 3/16 inch and deck/house is 10 gauge (slightly over 1/8 inch)
Entire boat sandblasted (inside an out), deck and house were then hot zinc flame sprayed including inside and outside of gunnels after being sandblasted, followed by 5 coats of Devoe Bar-Rust 235 epoxy paint sprayed on, topcoated with alkyd enamel.
Ribs and structural areas in interior of boat extra hand painted with Bar-Rust 235
Bilge area has 10 coats of epoxy
Hull does not have filler, small areas near stern show some steel wrinkling (this can be smoothed out with filler if so desired)
Hull is painted with marine enamel (red and white) over epoxy
Icom VHF plus spare Standard Horizon with DSC
Icom 718 ham/ssb with SGC tuner (US built)
Furuno depth sounder (new), spare transducer
JVC 1500 radar
Solar panels (2 of 35 watt) with Bluesky 2000E controller (new)
Lenovo 110/12 volt computer plus 15 inch Benq lcd monitor
Extra mini-itx computer wired for 12 or 110 volt
Several hand held VHF radios (both are NiCad plus trays for AAs)
AIS receiver plus antenna
Link 10 battery meter
Air X wind generator (40 watt model) with spare blades
66 pound Bruce (genuine)
66 pound Bruce (custom built)
55 pound cqr (custom built)
45 pound Danforth
60 pound folding Bruce (stock removes, custom built)
All above with extra heavy duty swivels and shackles
2 of 22 lb cqr
100 feet 3/8 hi-tensile (used one season)
Various lengths of 3/8 BB and 7/16 chain (about 200 feet)
Several hundred feet Ύ inch nylon
Several hundred feet ½ inch nylon
Extra heavy duty anchor rollers (port and starboard) and cheeks
Reel ½ inch line
Kubota V1902B diesel, 2000 hours on meter (note, the hour meter is electrically run so when key is on it clocks time, the key was accidentally left on for 2 weeks while docked which totaled 336 hours of extra time which should be subtracted)
.this is the same engine used by Universal/Medalist, Westerbeke, Nanni (4.50) and Betamarine (50).
Borg Warner velvet drive transmission, 2.5:1 ratio
1 and 3/8 inch ss shaft with 3 blade 21 by 13 inch prop (plus spare prop)
Lasdrop shaft seal plus standard bronze stuffing box as spare
15 gallon day tank with manual pump from built in diesel tanks, with 2 heavy duty (truck) filters, one water blocking
2 Racors for secondary filtration (10 micron and 2 micron)
Minto fiberglass rowing dinghy with 2 sets long oars.
4 hp 2 stroke Johnson outboard
7.5 hp Mercury 2 stroke (older but low hours) inflatable dinghy for this is defunct
Kubota AE1100 gas generator (very low hours)
Pressure water with charcoal filter
Force 10 propane stove with excellent oven, piezo lighting, fail safe burners on stove top and oven (shuts off propane if flame goes out)
Double deep SS sinks
Built in icebox with separate compressor unit
Combinations of standard, fluorescent and led lighting
70 gallons diesel (tanks are separate, not integral)
180 gallons water (integral)
Watermaker with new Honda gas engine, Cat pump, 4 foot membrane (20 gallons per hour), plus fittings plus large supply of chemicals (note this pump can be mounted on main engine).
Numerous electric pumps (pressure and washdown).
Galvanized rigging (new in 2006) and galvanized heavy turnbuckles
Sails, main, 2 staysails, roller furling yankee and 120% jib, all as new with minor patch on staysail
Main mast is 40 feet, fore-mast is 36 feet, heavy wall aluminum with custom built stainless goosenecks and rigging hardware
Older Hood self furling, working well
Large inventory of spare parts and tools.
Spare high output alternator and external regulator
Holding tank for head, 18 gallons
Steel boat discussion:
Many people are afraid of steel boats due to concerns about corrosion (or rusting). There is a lot of confusion about this so heres a brief explanation. Rusting is a non-scientific term and is associated with the ugly brown stuff (iron oxides) that occurs when oxygen reacts with ferrous metals. Corrosion is the more correct term and is the wearing away of metal due to a chemical reaction and affects steel and other metals. This wearing away is a well understood reaction and it occurs at a constant rate dependent on the type of metals involved.
Steel corrodes (rusts) at a very slow rate in air. If you throw the same piece of steel into the sea, it will corrode more quickly due to the chemical and electrical reactions set up. This corrosion occurs at a known rate until it is completely consumed (to iron oxide). If you take the same piece of steel and connect it to a battery and then throw it into the sea, the chemical reactions are speeded up and the steel will be consumed much quicker (galvanic corrosion).
All metals corrode, even the best marine bronzes corrode in sea water, but again this is at a known rate. If you throw a high quality bronze thru hull into the water, it will corrode at a set rate (slower than steel and measured in thousands of an inch per year) until consumed, most likely in 30 to 40 years.
Apart from the natural corrosion, if a boat has mixed metals underwater, improperly installed DC electrical equipment or is tied up to a dock with a poor AC installation, this corrosion can accelerate. With proper grounding, zincing and barrier coatings, this corrosion can be stopped completely.
While a poorly prepared and maintained steel boat can quickly turn into an unsightly mess, it actually takes many years to completely corrode through steel even of a moderate thickness. If properly prepared and maintained, a steel boat can reasonably be expected to look good and last many years. Even if a steel boat is neglected, steel is very easy to fix and weld even in remote areas.
One of the best aspects of a steel boat is the incredible strength, about 10 times as strong as a fiberglass boat. A steel boat is one of the few boats that can be put on a reef and has a chance of being salvaged. With 30% elasticity in the steel, even a stranded boat that is pounded beyond recognition has every chance of not being holed or developing a leak. While many people associate steel with rusting and unsightly ship wrecks on the coastline, try and visualize how long a fiberglass boat would be visible after a wreck.
When a steel boat is welded up, it is a complete monocoque assembly. There are no fasteners, joints (especially hull to deck joints) etc to work loose or fail. It is also completely watertight on the deck, no leaks or drips.
The 6 main areas or concern on a steel boat
2. Boot line
3. Topsides and deck
5. Electrical and grounds
Underwater: while it seems counter intuitive, this is actually the area which is the least prone to problems, if the boat has adequate zincs. Forget the frequent mis-information about over zincing, this does not apply to steel. The more zincs you have on a steel boat, the better. One zinc will protect all areas up to about 15 feet away. Zincs will also protect pipe welded to the hull (the most common form of through hull on steel boats), based on the diameter. This boat has always had large zincs, all of which are still original showing very little pitting (a sign of over active electrical action).
What happens if the barrier coat is scratched? Nothing, the steel will rust but it will not corrode. Even a boat that has no zincs it will not suffer problems except over considerable amounts of time, steel corrodes at a constant rate and the thicker steel used on the bottom gives a large margin of protection.
Boot line: this is the most common area for corrosion, and is usually what makes steel boats look so bad. Why? Because this area is exposed to oxygen but not being below the water line, it is not protected by zincs and also tends to be wet. It is also one of the easier areas to maintain, any corrosion is quickly visible as a brown streak and can be sanded and epoxied in short order.
Topsides and deck: this area takes a real beating, especially the deck with running into docks, dropping tools etc. This is also the first area which will show unsightly rust streaks and can be a real turn off as far as visual appeal. It is also the easiest area to keep a watch on and maintain because of its visibility. To help alleviate some of the problems in this area, this boat was sprayed with a hot zinc coating (galvanized) after sandblasting. Even if the paint is chipped, this only exposes the zinc which does not rust. After zinc spraying, the topsides were covered with multiple different colored layers of high build epoxy. Any chips that do occur are easily repaired with epoxy or ordinary alkyd house paint.
Interior: this is where most steel boats can have problems, largely because corrosion is hard to detect behind all the insulation and furniture. This area is also often poorly prepared and painted during building in the false belief that the interior is less of a problem than the exterior. The interior of this boat was completely sandblasted and coated with several layers of different coloured epoxy (to better visualize coverage). Problem areas such as the bilge have 10 coats of epoxy. Since the anchor chain is stored on deck, a lot of chipping and staining down below has been avoided.
a. DC, nothing on this boat is grounded to the hull or through hulls. There is only one through hull below the water line with a bronze sea cock which is completely isolated. The house batteries and starting battery are also separated, with the only grounded connection being the starting battery to the motor (this is used only for a few seconds for starting so does not cause problems).
b. AC, the boat has a floating ground, which means the grounding of battery chargers and electrical appliances are done through the green wire from the dock. The green and white wire are not connected on the boat as is the rule in your house. More on this can be found on the ABYC web site.
Insulation: There is a lot of opinion on this. Many steel boats are sprayed with foam which has a very good reputation for insulation and not causing corrosion problems. Some of the older foams do burn and can give off cyanide gas. This boat has a combination of insulation, mostly a pressed fiberglass mat (used in refrigerated truck trailers) as it is non-flammable and easy to remove to check for corrosion behind. Other areas are covered with blue rigid foam or standard fiberglass, again for easy removal. Contrary to popular opinion, steel boat decks are not any hotter than fiberglass, especially if properly insulated. In fact, steel cools down more rapidly in the evening than fiberglass due to its conductive qualities.
Condensation: We have never had condensation problems or mold or mildew on this boat as is quite common on fiberglass.
The dorades are constructed of purple heart which is a tropical wood. It is not as stable as teak and as a result the 4 dorades on the boat are slightly deteriorated and should be re-built or replaced. The best replacement is aluminum as then there would be zero maintenance.
Turtle over sliding hatch is built out of oak and is deteriorating. The turtle is strictly cosmetic and can be removed (sliding hatch is teak and in excellent condition), or replaced (best material would be aluminum).
Bottom was re-painted in 2006 but the paint did not adhere well and is peeling off. The underlying layer is the original epoxy layer applied to the sandblasted boat, it has some minor failures but over 90% is still tightly bonded to the hull. Fix?
(1) The loose layer can be ground off (or lightly sandblasted) and the underlying layer scored (not removed) to form a tooth, epoxy paint is then applied and overlain with anti-fouling, or
(2) Sand blast to bare steel and completely remove old paint, apply epoxy and then anti-fouling.
Wiring: Fully functional but could use some quick ties. Note that extra wire was left for expansion or moving of control panels.